When you’re poking through your worm bin keep a sharp eye out for eggs. They’re quite tiny and have a distinctive dun yellow colour. You can tell the maturity of the eggs by their colour, after the babies have pushed out, the eggs will turn light brown and eventually dark brown. You only need to save the yellow ones, just put them back in the bin and they’ll keep on developing. 
RED WORM EGGS/COCOONS
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Tagged composting worms, egg sacks, indoor worm bins, Red worm eggs, red worms, vermicomposting, worm cocoons, worm eggs
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WHERE ARE THE WORMS
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Tagged compost, earth worms, farming, fertilizer, Gardening, Mulch, vermicast
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We have been fielding calls of late from gardeners looking for worms, Earthworms that is not Red Composting worms. When they are getting the garden ready for spring the wise producer does a worm count. When you turn the soil in your plot you should be able to easily find some worms in every shovel full. If you notice worms are harder and harder to locate or can’t find any at all, it’s time to amend your soil. Worms need food and in older really well worked gardens they may have composted all there is to compost and moved to greener pastures so to speak. They could have been inadvertently poisoned or the soil structure has changed, become more sandy for example. Not to worry, you can lure them back. The first step to increasing the worm count in your plot is to add organic matter. You can use any assortment of compost or manure even plain old grass clippings and leaves. The next step is to employ mulch, generously, Earthworms live in the first foot or so of soil but still need decaying organic matter to eat, by providing a steady supply of rotting leaf mulch you can ensure they stay around for the long haul. If you use chemical fertilizers, stop now, once you have the worms back, producing vermicast to fertilize your plants you won’t need it anyway. Chemical fertilizers may work in the short-term, in the long-term however they basically kill the soil by destroying the micro-organisms that worms and plants need to survive.
TURTLE ISLAND |
The main mound plot at Dufferin school garden is ready for planting, we met with Audrey Logan to begin preparing the area. This gathering was during “rest” week on the moon cycle. If you need back ground info on the mound garden please see this post. http://www.naturesperfectplantfood.com/2012/03/18/sun-root-spring-harvest/ It will be divided into 13 separate segments each containing a Three Sister mound. We’re using sister’s sunflower, bean and squash. The type of squash (Askuta) meaning to eat raw or uncooked is considered any hard rind squash such as pumpkin, acorn etc. This is picked when young, just after the flower drops off, its dried and pounded into flour or can be left in chunks and reconstituted in soups and stews. Interestingly, the nutritional value of the flesh is highest at this time, before the plant has put its energy into seed development. In accordance with the lesson of the Dear spirit http://www.naturesperfectplantfood.com/2012/04/19/garden-lessons-from-the-deer-spirit/ some squash is left to mature. Seeds from these can be roasted and used to create long lasting pemmican the original granola bar.
Our garden model will be Turtle Island, the 13 separate mounds represent the yearly cycle of the Moon. It’s pointed East toward the rising sun. In the oral history we’ve been learning, Turtle Island is also the term used for Mother Earth and our garden is a small representation of the whole. Around the perimeter we will introduce protective plants such as onion and some grains. Companion planting is a huge part of traditional gardening, the most simple example being the Three Sisters but because this oral history is wide and deep we can explore some of the more complex combinations. It’s not as easy as it sounds, like all families, some folks just can’t get along. As always feel free to comment or question this or any post, next time we’ll gossip a little more about “the family dynamic”.
FOR OUR MOTHER
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Tagged climate change, environment, mother earth, mother's day
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If your Mother was drowning would you dive in to save her?
If she began to choke would you help her?
If she was burning in a fire, would you pull her to safety?
The Mother of us all needs our help now, show her the love and respect that you give to your family. Visit our links page and get involved, live, love and learn.
HAPPY 360 WORMS
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Tagged composting worms, indoor worm bin, red worms, vermicomposting, Worm Factory 360
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Our Worm Factory has been up and running for 10 days. The worms are really doing well, it’s an effective system indeed. They have composted their first meal and were fed another 1/2 Litre of frozen/thawed kitchen scraps. They probably didn’t appreciate the intrusion into their domain this morning but food is food and they bounce back quickly. If you live in the Winnipeg area you can buy the Worm Factory 360 at T&T Seeds http://www.ttseeds.com/PHP/home.php inside you’ll find a coupon from yours truly to help you on the road to becoming a Vermicomposter. There’s never been a better time to get started.
VERMICAST, THE WHY AND THE HOW
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Tagged composting worms, fertilizer, Gardening, organic farming, red worms, vermicast, vermicomposting
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Vermicast is a truly unique product and Nature’s Perfect Plant Food produces some of the best. But why is it so different from traditional compost or top soil? First off it’s made with cow manure, by using the same feed stock our Vermicast is consistent. One ton of manure takes about 18 months to two years to completely vanish under the hungry mouths of millions of red composting worms (Eisenia fetida). We have an out-door facility in a Northern habitat so the time period could be shortened if we worked inside. Vermicast contains 40% more Humus than compost and Humus is the fundamental building block of soil. Organic material that’s been broken down until it is resistant to further change, Humus is what holds and transfers water within the soil structure. You’ll notice less watering is needed when plants are grown in vermicast. Microbial content is extremely important and Vermicast provides this in spades. When you buy sterilized potting soil you are basically buying a dead product. Vermicast is like the yogurt of the soil world and we all know how good those probiotics are for you. The bacteria in worm castings are one of the few things that can naturally break the Nitrogen bond, giving plants rare soluble Nitrogen that they can easily absorb. The micro organisms also provide hormones which boost the plants immune response, making for larger and stronger specimens. Almost all seedlings you buy from a greenhouse are grown in a vermicast potting mix. These are growers that know what they’re doing, they need to produce healthy plants in a timely fashion. If you enjoy organic produce it’s been fertilized with either vermicast tea or straight castings. Vermicast is one of the only certain ways you can fertilize without man-made chemicals, all the Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphorus plants need to live is made by Mother Nature herself. The difference between chemical fertilizers and natural fertilizers is reflected in the quality of the soil you end up with, chemical fertilizers eventually creat sterile soil and must be used continuously for plants to grow. Vermicast slow releases fertilizer and strengthens the “body” of your soil along the way. Ultimately saving your garden or house plants from a depend addiction to chemicals. Once your soil is strong and virile, you can simply water with easy to make vermicast tea to supply nutrients. Please consider this information next time you’re at the garden center and help out your garden with vermicast or better yet skip the middle man and find a worm farmer near you.
BEAN WEEK AT THE GARDEN |
Last Saturday we joined some friends at Dufferin School community garden to continue our lessons with Traditional gardener Audrey Logan. It was bean week in accordance to our moon cycle schedule but still to early to plant seeds. Audrey uses the night-time temperatures to gauge planting times. In the oral tradition, these are refered to as old or young woman. Morning temperatures must be like the old woman (double digits) for a week to ten days in a row before it’s safe for seedlings. Upon inspecting the condition of the soil and doing a worm count in the mound and raised bed gardens, it was decided that conditions were not yet right for planting. We learned a little about actual Beans; when left on the vine they can plant themselves.
The Bean seed pod hardens with the end forming a sharp point, if left alone the pods force themselves into the ground where they soften and release the seeds. The softening process takes enough time to ensure the seeds don’t germinate to early. We then turned to the important topic of insect life in the garden, specifically pollinators. Insects need a reliable habitat to flourish this is why traditional methods employ year round mulching and stalks from last years plants are left in place. Thus providing food and shelter to over wintering eggs and pupa. Spring can be a time of hardship for emerging insect populations especially in a world with unpredictable weather due to climate change. First nation gardeners would traditionally leave some fallen fruit for early pollinators to live on until flowering plants begin blooming. With the neat and tidy yards found in most urban centers, these early risers often suffer. Audrey recreated the fallen fruit by freezing bits of fruit waste over the winter, now in spring they are thawed and laid on mats made of available green leaf growth right in the garden. This will provide nourishment for valuable pollinators such as moths and butterflies and encourage them to stay around the garden. Birds are also strongly affected by a sort of “famine” during early spring, as birds migrate to nesting grounds and forests, where they may have found food in the past, the city habitat doesn’t provide it. We hung suet seed balls to support any feathered visitors who may drop by.
Next we turned our hand to re-mulching, by transferring leaf material using Antler tools, which turned out to be quite effective. Audrey also discussed which plants make insect repellents and why, but we’ll save that for next post. As always feel free to question or comment on any of our posts and please tune in again.
360 START UP
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Tagged composting worms, Eisenia fetida, indoor worm bin, red worms, vermicomposting, vermicomposting bin, worm bin
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The Worm Factory kit we received is impressive and generous. It contains everything you need to begin worm farming, even the shredded newspaper, which really cracked us up. Set up with the written instructions was fairly easy, a bit of a hitch with wringing out the Char as per instructions, but that was minor.
Mixing the bedding ingredients was a breeze, shedding more paper a treat, the whole affair took 20 min. Now to add a bit of food and some worms. We’re using the NPPF standard starter kit with 200 mL (just under 1/2 lb) of Eisenia fetida. This system looks very promising, stay tuned.


TESTING 360
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Tagged indoor worm bin, red worm composting, vermicomposting, vermicomposting system
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How exciting is this! We’ll be starting a brand new Worm Factory 360 in the next week or so. We’ve heard really good things about this Vermicomposting system and we’ll put it to the test. Keep you posted! Learn more:
We use cattle manure to make our vermicast at our vermicomposting facility and the worms thrive. After twenty years of production who knows how many countless generations have come and gone. Getting worms to reproduce in an indoor worm bin is another story. Our Easy bin has been up and running since last November, about six months, up until last week we hadn’t found any eggs. Red worms should be able to reproduce every two months or so which put this bin a little behind schedule. What’s gone wrong? The bin’s in really good condition, with a nice balance of bedding and food, vermicast and worms. The colony eats about one litre of kitchen scraps per week and the smaller worms are growing nicely, why aren’t they having lots of babies? While pondering this very question the quality of food came up, are they getting enough protein….manure has a higher protein content than the strictly veggie diet in the bin and we decider to add extra protein. We used a course whole wheat flour to bump up the protein value and one week later began to find our first eggs. This could simple be coincidence as worms can be a bit seasonal in their breeding habits but supplementing their diet is not a bad idea. We plan to start four new bins over the next few weeks. Half of these will stay with the veggie diet and the other two will get flour as well. Stay tuned for updates.

